Heating Issue in 2002 Chevrolet Silverado PDF Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 20 December 2011 09:23

Dear Barbara,

I have a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado, 4.8 liter; it has a 3 inch lift on it. The bottom fan shroud is not on it and it has a big slice on the top fan shroud cut out to fit for the air intake tube that is stock. The problem is when I’m sitting in traffic at a long light, the truck will overheat with the a/c on; but it does not overheat when the a/c is off.

I was told that the fan shroud should be put back on and I was also told that this would not matter. I changed out the thermostat and had the cooling system flushed, and this did not help. What can cause this problem?



Dear William,

The car manufacturers make their makes and models with certain specs of aerodynamics. When you jack your truck up with lifts and alter the design that first came off of the assembly line, you will more than likely have issues like you are experiencing.

The best advice I can give you is that you need to get the shroud back on and as quick as possible to keep your Silverado from overheating. It needs to be built up enough to the center of the radiator as much as you can, or build a tunnel like you would see in a Dodge truck/V6. To get a visual of how your shroud needs to be built, take a gander at the Dodge V6; you might want to even think about buying a Dodge shroud for your truck.

Thanks for the question!

Ford Taurus Keyless Remote Function PDF Print E-mail
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Tuesday, 20 December 2011 09:17

Dear Barbara,

I just had to replace the battery in my Ford Taurus and now for some reason, the keyless remote entry device does not work. I also changed the battery in the remote device but still no improvement. To your knowledge, is there something in the Taurus that requires resetting to reactivate the remote keyless entry? I hesitate to take the car to a Ford garage because they previously charged me $95.00 just for a second "normal" replacement key. Any help would be appreciated.


Dear Tom,

Unfortunately Ford does have you by the ying yang. You will have to pay for an hour of labor every time your battery is disconnected because it deprograms the remote. I wish I could be of more help with some ole trick of the trade, but in this case, you will have to go to your local Ford dealer.

Thanks for reading and writing in!

Carfax Report and Trade-In Denial for Damaged Car PDF Print E-mail
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Saturday, 10 December 2011 07:57

Dear Barbara,

I was sent one of your articles that appeared in the ‘Houston Chronicle’ over the weekend and I just wanted to get your opinion. My wife purchased a used 2007 GMC Denali from a local dealership in San Antonio in 2008. The vehicle appeared to be in excellent shape and well-maintained. I asked the sales manager and general manager of the dealership if this vehicle had been in an accident, and they both responded “no”. I also ran a Carfax report on the vehicle and it came back clean. However, when my wife tried to trade in her car at another dealership, they did a Carfax report as well, and this time the report indicated that this vehicle had, in fact, been in an accident and had frame damage.

Almost a year had passed from the time the vehicle was involved in an accident to the time that it was listed on Carfax. Why would it take so long for Carfax to process this information? To add insult to injury, Carfax states in "fine print" that after you pay money to use their service, you must also register for their "buyback guarantee". I am frustrated with both the car dealership that sold my wife this vehicle and Carfax for not processing VIN# information in a timely manner and not being clear on their buyback policies. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks for reading my lengthy e-mail.



Dear Mike,

The sales manager and General Manager both know how to look for paintwork and of course frame damage, and they do not depend on Carfax only to tell them this. When they take a trade in, buy a vehicle at an auction, or from a wholesaler, one of the first things that they do is look for paintwork and not only depend on running a Carfax to tell them about the vehicle’s history.

Working in that part of the industry for years, I know this to be fact! They pop the hood and look for replacement fenders and or paintwork tape lines along with popping the doors and rear trunk, hatch, or tailgate, and also look for the same proof of paintwork and/or frame damage. You do have a legal right to stand on and they are required to take it back, if they did not disclose it to you that the vehicle had prior paintwork. Hire an attorney and I bet your problem gets rectified in a quick manner!

Good luck, and keep me updated!

Wet Carpet in 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Saturday, 10 December 2011 08:07

Dear Barbara,

I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GT, 4-door Sedan that is getting a wet spot in the “driver’s foot” carpet area, when it rains. I have checked the door and window seals and they appear intact. I've looked on the net for solutions but have not found any that were specific to my Pontiac. Is there anything you know of that could have created this problem. Please advise as the car is getting that mildew smell.



Dear Joe,

I would first find a high-pressure car wash that is local to you and grab some quarters. Spray water on and around the driver’s window and windshield to see if water is seeping in there. Then try doing the same process around the door and if you have a sunroof, try the water method on that to see if the sunroof is leaking, as a leaky sunroof is a common problem.

If after all of this, you have not experienced the source of the leak, then look on your floorboard for a plug that may have been knocked lose as this may be your culprit. I hope you get this fixed quickly, because I can smell your mildew aroma from here.

97 Honda Civic with Sputtering Problems PDF Print E-mail
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Saturday, 10 December 2011 07:35

Dear Barbara,

I have a 97 Honda Civic with 228k miles, and so far I have had very few problems with it. Recently, the catalytic converter was replaced (on March 22). On April 11, the car would not start; there was sputtering as if the engine was trying to turn over. It was raining pretty hard, so I thought perhaps that was my problem.

I tried starting the car the next day, but it still had the same problem. On Sunday, before having the car towed to my mechanic, it started without a problem. My mechanic diagnosed the car as having "corroded" lines to the battery and so I had those replaced, and when I went to pick up the car, it started just fine. I drove to the nearest gas station and filled up the tank, and once again it started just fine. However, when I came to a red light, there was a hesitation and sputtering as though the engine wanted to shut off, but it did not.

A few hours later, I tried to restart the car; it sputtered and died, so I waited a few minutes and tried it again. The car came on and I let it run for a few minutes. It seemed to do okay, but I am a little concerned about putting it into traffic. I would like to keep this car for at least two more months. Do you have any ideas what could be going on?



Dear John,

To me, it sounds like you’re “round the world and back”. Honda needs to be retired. I hate to say this, but you may need to park it and give the poor, worn-out car a break. This is a tough one with the amount of miles because it could be a zillion possibilities. I would first get a fuel pressure test to see if you have good fuel pressure. You may need a fuel pump.

You might also run a compression test to see what type of condition your cylinders are in, and you might possibly be able to get a few more months out of your car by having a full-blown tune-up performed. How long has it been since you put new plugs and wires into it?

Thanks for writing in, and keep in mind that cars do not last a lifetime and you have been extremely fortunate to get this many miles out of yours.

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